How to Change a Cat's Food with 10 Tasty Tips
Updated: 2 days ago
Is your cat refusing to eat its new food? Do you have a bin overflowing with half-empty sachets and tins? Are you spending a fortune on prescription diets with so much waste that you might as well be flushing money down the toilet?
Changing a cat's food can be a challenge for fussy eaters, as I discovered when my boy, Drax, was diagnosed with having crystals in his wee and I had to switch him onto a urinary diet. This can be especially problematic in multi-cat households with a Mr or Miss Greedy in the mix - if kitty won't eat its new food then one of its housemates will!
Specialist diets are the most common reason for making the transition, but these tasty tips can be applied to any type or brand of food that you want to start feeding your cats.
Head to my TRIED AND TESTED top 10 tips for how to change a cat's food - and yes, they really work!
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These 10 strategies are guaranteed to encourage cats to try new food - sometimes getting over that first hurdle is all it takes. If you're thinking that cats will eat anything if they're hungry enough, you clearly don't know cats.
One of the main causes of anorexia seen in catteries and shelters is not giving them the right food - that is, food they're not used to eating or simply don't like. While it never hurts to get a health check-up, especially where cats seem to have lost their appetite or gone off their usual food, oftentimes they won't eat simply because they're not hungry.
1. Mix Old Food with New
Before we start mixing, any abrupt changes to a cat's diet can lead to vomiting and/or diarrhoea. Cats are sensitive creatures and new food should be introduced gradually in small amounts to minimise stomach upsets. If sickness persists then go back to their current food until it's cleared up or try another brand.
You could first try offering a few spoonfuls of regular and new food in separate bowls. If your cat refuses the new food then it's time to start mixing.
*It's generally advised against mixing different brands of specialist or veterinary prescribed foods based on the ingredients and how they function together. In order for diets to work, it has to be done consistently in the same way as administering medication. Do your research, stick to manufacturers' guides and find a balance that works for your cat.
Days 1-2: Feed 3/4 of regular food with 1/4 of new food.
Days 3-4: Increase amounts to half and half.
Days 5-7: Increase further to 1/4 regular and 3/4 new.
Day 8 onwards: Feed only new food.
The aim is that by the end of week one, the transition to new food is complete; but this is just a guideline demonstrating the MINIMUM amount of time it should take. In Drax's case, this timeframe wasn't only optimistic but completely far-fetched.
At the time of writing this article, we're a month into the change to urinary food and he barely manages a sachet per day. At the risk of starving himself, I've been feeding him regular food alongside his specialist diet. On the plus side, he's come a long way from refusing to approach his food bowl.
*UPDATE*
2 months later, Drax has officially switched completely to urinary food - wahoo! Depending on appetite (bearing in mind he's a lazy bones) he generally eats 1-2 sachets of wet food per day and snacks on kibble.
I'd rather he ate more wet food as it's better for urinary issues and a cat's health in general, but there's a decent balance so I'm happy with where we're at. Proof that however long it takes to get used to new food will largely depend on your cat's energy and stubbornness levels!
2. Layer Foods
You can use this in combination with mixing, depending on how fussy (or greedy) your kitty is. Layering new food on top of regular food forces cats to eat through it in order to get to the good stuff. Not all will fall for this trick, but encouraging them to approach and inspect their bowl is a good starting point.
3. Mash and Heat
If you're feeding wet food, mix with a splash of warm water and heat for a few seconds in the microwave. Bringing out the aroma helps to make food more appetising to a cat's incredible sense of smell, and in the wild they'd be munching on fresh prey rather than something at room temperature.
Apologies to my fellow veggies out there, but if you don't like it then don't get a cat!
Grain-free Cosma Jelly Snacks come in single servings for moderation and to lessen wastage. Includes tasty chicken, tuna or salmon in a light jelly.
4. Add Treats or Toppers
Bury treats in the food or use a topper. These usually consist of dried sprinkles or a paste/jelly that comes in individual sachets, which can be given as a snack or drizzled over food. Drax enjoys these Cosma Jelly Snacks that come in a variety of flavours including chicken, tuna and salmon - although he does have a habit of licking it off the top and leaving the rest.
Another good option and a bestseller on Amazon are Ciao Churu Treat Tubes, available in a mixture of chicken or seafood recipes. Both are best for wet food as they have the same texture, which also matters to cats.
If you're looking for the option of a dry food topper, these Cat Sprinkles are available in chicken, chicken-liver and turkey. If, like me, you have a sneaky topper scoffer then you can start mixing it into the food or offer it as a reward after eating.
5. Encourage Tasting
Wipe or smear a little bit of wet food onto your cat's paw (or crumble up some dry food and make a paste with a drop of water). This will encourage them to lick it off while grooming to get that initial first taste out of the way.
I also used my finger to dab some food onto Drax's lips, but only attempt this if you trust your cat - and more importantly, if kitty allows it! Nine times out of ten he'd eat the rest, even if it was just a few mouthfuls.
6. Offer Different Flavours and/or Textures
Offer a variety of textures and flavours, wherever possible. Rotate every day or so to avoid boredom, but not too often or else they'll soon learn that if they refuse to eat one thing then something different will take its place. This may be difficult with specialist diets because the range of flavours is, to put it bluntly, crap. Most urinary food comes in a choice of chicken or salmon regardless of brand.
How would you like to eat the same two meals every day, Mr Purina?
If companies are going to charge a fortune for their products, at least make them appealing. Most brands have both wet and dry food available, as well as different textures such as pâté which offers some variety. Thankfully, Drax will scoff almost any kibble going once he's adapted to the new tastes and smells.
It's also worth highlighting again the importance of texture: that is, food that's too sloppy, too dry, too crunchy, too soft, large chunks or small chunks. Drax only started eating his urinary food when it was mashed into the size of minced meat, and both of my boys go for smaller kibble pieces. Cats have preferences, too!
7. Use Clean, Suitable Bowls
As obvious as it sounds, use a clean bowl for every mealtime so there are no lingering pongs - this will turn cats off even more. If someone served you a mouldy banana then you're not going to look at bananas in the same way for a good few days. In fact, why not blow your kitty's mind by offering a different shape or style of bowl?
Wide, shallow dishes are best to avoid whisker fatigue; and raising it off the ground helps to reduce neck strain. A comfy kitty will be more inclined to eat, and a new bowl may provide a distraction from putting the same food down.
Some cats prefer to have their food and water bowls kept apart, so you can try separating them.
Set of 3 cat food bowls made from quality, non-toxic melamine. Bowls have a shallow design and tilted angle to prevent whisker fatigue, with anti-skid silicone pads underneath.
8. Make Sure Cats Are Hungry
Cats are more likely to eat when they're hungry, such as after a play session or set mealtimes. More often than not, they'll pester for food out of boredom or just because they can. No grazing and no naughty snacks!
To keep this momentum going, offer smaller portions to keep kitty coming back for more. This will mean more regular feeding, but it's a temporary measure and may work better for fussy eaters.
9. Avoid Creating Food Aversion
Food aversion can be caused by forcing cats to eat or starving them into submission, both of which create negative associations with food. Never try to physically restrain or syringe-feed a cat because, chances are, you'll be the one that suffers - and much deserved, in my opinion. With the exception of medical intervention, and unless your kitty is facing a life-or-death situation, there's no reason why you should be force-feeding an animal.
Take away uneaten food rather than leaving it to go stale - that's gross for everyone. Cats will be fine without food for 12 hours, but remember that just because they've built up an appetite doesn't mean they'll eat whatever's put in front of them. Leaving them for days at a time poses a serious health risk, so if they're refusing to budge then it's best to reset and start over.
10. Feed Separately from Other Cats
As touched on previously, if you have a shy cat or one that's bullied by greedy companions, give it a private room to eat at its own pace. Fortunately, Simba wouldn't touch wet food with a thirty-foot barge pole so there was never any competition in our house. He's extremely particular about his kibble too, although he did develop a liking for Royal Canin's urinary food!
Can New Food Cause Vomiting and Diarrhoea?
Vomiting and/or diarrhoea after eating can happen for a number of reasons, particularly where new diets are concerned. Sometimes food doesn't agree with a cat's sensitive stomach, but the more common cause is that it's been introduced too quickly. A gradual transition allows the digestive system to adjust to unfamiliar nutrients over a number of days or weeks.
Vomiting can also be a result of cats eating too fast, if they're in competition with other housemates or particularly fond of their new food - which is great for you, but not so much for kitty!
Poor ingredients can be a factor with some cheaper brands, so be sure to choose a quality diet with all of the necessary nutrients that a cat needs. This is the equivalent to humans eating a freshly-cooked meal in comparison to processed junk. Food intolerance and allergies can also upset a cat's stomach, in which case it's best to try a different brand.
Most issues can be solved with a temporary return to old food until vomiting stops and poop returns to normal. Blood work and other tests can help to diagnose any allergies, intolerances, bacteria or other things that may be causing sickness in cats. If vomiting or diarrhoea persists for more than 48 hours, consult a vet for advice.
Related post: How to Prepare Cats for a Vet Visit and Reduce Stress
How Long Does It Take Cats to Adjust to New Food?
While the minimum amount of time it should take cats to transition to new food is one week, the maximum time is more difficult to predict and will depend on your cat's resistance levels and gut sensitivity.
Allow at least 14 days if your cat is being fussy, as it may be feeling unwell without the obvious signs of vomiting or diarrhoea. We've all eaten something that didn't agree with us and, in some cases, never looked at that food in the same way again.
It also depends on how big a change the diet is: for example, swapping dry food for wet food is more likely to create aversion IF your cat is particularly fussy. Try to keep textures and flavours the same or similar to old food in the first instance, and if this has no effect then switch things up by offering something different. Be prepared to give kitties at least 3-4 weeks to adjust, although this is by no means a set timeframe.
Introducing new food is more likely to go smoothly if taken slowly - in my case, 4 weeks was closer to 4 months! Drax would still sooner eat a regular meal to his urinary diet, not that I blame the poor guy. Who wants salad when they could have pizza?
Can Normal Cats Eat Another Cat's Prescription Food?
In short, yes, it is safe for normal cats to eat prescription or specialist foods; but it shouldn't make up their complete daily diet. The ingredients in these foods are adapted to suit the condition: for example, urinary food has lower magnesium, calcium and phosphorus contents, which are associated with the formation of urinary stones.
Cats are unlikely to become deficient because they have abnormally high levels of these nutrients in the first place, whereas a normal cat may develop deficiencies over time. A few mouthfuls won't hurt but if it's persistently stealing another cat's food and eating none of its own, then separate mealtimes are a good idea.
An alternative solution might be investing in a microchip feeder, which is a bit like an upgraded food dispenser that releases food to an authorised pet by recognising his or her microchip. Here in the UK owners must get their cats microchipped by law, but it's also possible to attach them to collars.
As a basic option, the Sure Petcare SureFeed Microchip Pet Feeder works for both wet and dry food. The lid only opens for authorised pets based on their microchip or RFID collar tag (supplied).
Just be conscious of any changes to your cat's health and if you suspect new food is the cause, consult a qualified vet.
Enough of the theory work, it's time to get practical by trying these easy strategies for introducing cats to new food. Smell and familiarity are everything to our feline friends, so don't be surprised or concerned if there's a lengthy adjustment period. With persistence and encouragement, cats will eventually get used to new food. As with anything cat related, work on their time instead of your own!
Did these tasty tips work for your cat? Do you have any tips or advice of your own? Share in the comments!
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