How to Harness Train Cats for Walking on a Leash Safely
Updated: 2 days ago
As more cats are being confined to indoor life, pet parents are searching for new and innovative ways to offer their fur babies access to fresh air and exercise, while keeping them safe from potential dangers. Outdoor enclosures such as catios and cat-proof fencing are all great options, but they're not suitable for every household.
Apartment living, budget, space and other factors can be very limiting when it comes to letting cats experience the sights and smells of outdoors. Walking a cat might seem like a good alternative, but before you rush off to buy your first harness, you should take a moment to consider how cats really feel about this.
In this article:
Is It Cruel to Walk a Cat?
Cats are not dogs and shouldn't be treated as such. As any parent will know, cats value their independence and don't like being restrained for long periods of time - with the rare exception, of course! Many organisations, including Cats Protection and Blue Cross, don't recommend walking cats - and there are some very good reasons for this.
Territory
We say it all the time here: a cat's territorial nature is one of their strongest and oldest survival instincts, traced back to wild ancestors who needed to defend their territory to survive. Removing a cat from its home into an unfamiliar territory, with no access to a safe place, puts them in a vulnerable position that can create a lot of stress and panic.
Fear
A cat's first response to danger is to flee, and if they escape a harness or you drop the lead then - unlike dogs - they probably won't return. This poses the risk of running into traffic and other threats or harming themselves, so it's crucial that you use the right type of harness with a proper fit. Collars with leashes can be very dangerous for cats, for very obvious reasons.
Dogs
There are many dangers in the outside world that cats would rather avoid: traffic, loud noises, people and of course, dogs. Dogs are typically much larger than cats and will bark or chase when excited. With no option to run away, a frightened cat may well turn aggressive - which isn't good for anyone, including their human guardian.
Toileting
Cats can be very poop-ticular about their toileting habits, preferring privacy and familiarity. They also like to dig and bury, as you'll no doubt have heard with the persistent scraping of the litterbox and surrounding walls at 3am. Toileting is somewhat of a ritual for cats, as in the wild they cover their poop to hide their scent from predators.
Moreover, cats are very clean - or at least, they try to be - so defecating on the street isn't ideal. This is something we should be able to resonate with as humans - take away public bathrooms and we'd be in a potty crisis. All of these factors may put a cat off toileting, which can further lead to stress, discomfort and serious health conditions.
Taking everything into consideration, we need to recognise that cats have specific needs and each case should be judged on an individual basis. If your kitty enjoys being walked on a leash, is properly harness trained and you act responsibly, then there's no reason why it should be considered as cruel. In fact, it has the potential to be a very uplifting and rewarding bonding experience between cats and their guardians.
How to Safely Walk a Cat
Now that we've covered some of the disadvantages or negatives of walking a cat, let's look at precautions you can take to help improve the experience. As a responsible pet parent, these guidelines should be followed regardless of whether you're considering using a harness or letting your kitty roam free.
Microchipping and Vaccinations
All cats should be microchipped before letting them outside so they have a better chance of being tracked down in case they go missing. They should be up to date with vaccinations to protect them from diseases and parasites. This also applies to indoor cats as there's always a risk of escape - as is the curious nature of our feline friends!
Kittens
Kittens shouldn't be allowed outside until 5-6 months old; this gives plenty of time for neutering or spaying to prevent unplanned pregnancy. By this age, cats are almost fully-grown and have developed the necessary skills and instincts to explore their surroundings. This is the best age to begin harness training, as you can utilise a kitten's curious nature and boundless energy so it becomes a natural part of growing up.
Temperament
It might seem like common sense, but the temperament and personality of any individual cat is one of the most important factors. A placid or sociable kitty that's comfortable around large groups of people may be more suited to going on walks than a nervous or skittish cat that has a tendency to hide. The same could be said for cats that are already accustomed to being outdoors; however, if they're used to roaming free then they might not appreciate the restrictions imposed by a harness.
If you have access to lots of green space, this will be less intrusive on a kitty's senses than built-up towns and cities. Even brave cats might be cautious when introduced to a new environment, but that's not to say all would struggle with city life. There are plenty of "kitty influencers" strutting their stuff on social media - backpacking with cats seems to be a growing trend for felines that were born to explore.
Remember, the internet is a far cry from your average cat. What suits one won't necessarily suit another, no matter how much you want to increase your social following.
Choosing the Right Harness
As discussed in this post on preparing cats for a vet visit, the process for introducing a cat to a harness isn't so different from a carrier. The first step is choosing the most suitable style for your fur baby.
Collars are simply not safe for cats and, in fact, I'd say the same thing about dogs. It pains me to see any animal being "walked" by the neck as it's such a delicate area, and it wouldn't take much for a powerful dog or frightened cat to choke itself. A harness ensures the pressure is absorbed by the animal's shoulders and chest.
Collars should be used for identification purposes only, especially since there are some great walking options for the modern pet.
Sizing and Measurements
Harnesses come in different sizes and many are adjustable to some degree, but you still need to measure your cat for the perfect fit. If it's too big then kitty might escape, while a small or tight harness can cause chafing, difficulty breathing and affect a cat's ability to walk.
A snug, comfortable fit is best; ideally, you should be able to fit two fingers underneath the harness while your cat is wearing it. It's crucial to follow the manufacturers' guidelines for getting an accurate measurement or refer to the product size chart, if applicable. Most rely on a combination of neck and chest girth (behind the armpits and below the shoulder blades) but this can vary. Some harnesses go off a cat's weight, which in my experience isn't helpful because cats come in all shapes and sizes.
The measuring tape should be fairly taut around a cat's body, taking into account their thick fur. This can be easy or difficult depending on your cat, but it also gives a good idea of whether they're likely to tolerate a harness in the first place. Nevertheless, it might help to use treats or petting as a distraction; or alternatively, get someone to gently secure kitty for a few moments.
As mentioned, most harnesses are adjustable so you won't need an exact number. If your cat is in between sizes then it's best to go with the larger one to see if it fits, or choose a different harness with a closer size to what you need. Reviews can be helpful in giving some idea of whether products come smaller or larger than advertised, as well as comparing how they fit other cats against your own.
Here are some more factors to consider when choosing the right size harness:
Long-haired cats may need a size up from their actual body measurements to account for their thick fluffy coats.
If walking an obese cat for exercise, you might have to downsize as it loses weight or adjust the straps onto a tighter setting. Obese cats can be difficult to measure as their bodies aren't always in proportion (for example, a large torso and small or normal-sized neck).
Similarly, kittens will need upsizing as they grow so harnesses don't become tight or restrictive.
Style
When it comes to style, we're not talking about cute designs and cool kitties - although there are some adorable harnesses out there. From pink princesses to rockin' skull and crossbones, there really is something for everyone - but this won't stop an adventurous kitty from trying to wriggle out of it. What you should be looking for is comfort, safety and durability.
There are several different types of harnesses, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. The most popular ones include:
H-style: forms an "H" shape around the body with two straps that fasten around the neck and chest, and a strip between the shoulders for a leash to clip onto. These are lightweight but flimsy and tend to slip.
Y-style: similar to H-style but the upper strap sits further back on the shoulders. Not as secure as an H-harness but safer for energetic cats that run or jump.
Vest: fits around the torso for a snug fit and fastens at the back with clasps and a D-ring for attaching a leash. These are more secure but heavier and restrictive on a cat's body.
Jacket: provides extra warmth in colder climates and covers most of a cat's back and sides. These are fairly new in terms of availability and not all cats will tolerate them.
Looking for the perfect harness for your kitty? Check out these top recommendations: Best Harnesses for Cats and Kittens
Harness Training for Cats
Harness training doesn't - and shouldn't - come with a time limit as every cat is different. If you're lucky enough to be able to slap on a harness and skip out of the front door, that's great, but cats still need to learn how to be walked. That is, understanding that they can't go off and do their own cat-thing.
Strolling down a quiet residential street is one thing, but what happens when a double-decker bus or screeching motorbike comes flying around the corner? You need to prepare kitty for the sights, sounds, threats and dangers of outdoor life.
Baby steps is probably an understatement when it comes to harness training. In fact, it's not uncommon for cats to exhibit infant-like behaviour when wearing a harness for the first time: flopping onto their sides, refusing to move, commando crawling or attempting to "reverse" out of the harness are all completely normal reactions.
However, there are a few essential steps that must be taken before putting a harness anywhere near your cat.
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1. Scent
I don't know about your feline fur babies, but if I approach mine carrying something they've never seen before, they generally don't stick around to find out what it is. Cats might be curious but they're not stupid!
By all means, if you think your kitty will be interested then you can offer the harness for inspection. Otherwise, leave it somewhere they'll find it themselves, such as on the floor or near their toys. I wouldn't recommend putting it on beds or sleeping areas as some cats might see this as an invasion of their safe space.
I once (accidentally) left a dusting cloth on Simba's cat tree thinking it was no cause for alarm. Unbeknown to him, when he went to jump onto his bed, he spotted the cloth last minute and ended up flying an extra two feet in the air. It's hard not to chuckle, but it was a fair while before he used the cat tree again.
Nevertheless, cats being cats, everything must be inspected and approved so it shouldn't be long before the harness is marked as safe. When cats rub their faces and mouths on things, they're using their pheromones to scent them as a familiar object. Now when you approach them with the harness, they'll recognise the smell and it becomes a lot less scary.
2. Wearing a Harness
Don't expect your kitty to love its new harness - in fact, you should expect them to hate it. It's all well and good watching how-to videos with docile cats that look as if they've had one too many sherries, but this isn't the norm. The type of harness you're using will determine how easy or difficult it is to put on.
H-style harnesses, for example, will require keeping cats still while you slide it over their head and adjust the straps to the right length. With a vest, you can simply lay it out on the floor and line up kitty's front paws with the two holes, then slide it up their arms and clip it shut at the back. This is the method I used for both cats: Drax was a one-woman job but, of course, Simba required an extra pair of hands.
Reactions will vary from cat to cat, and some can be rather dramatic as I later discovered. If cats are squirming, crying, panting or struggling to get away, then stop what you're doing and let them go. Forcing a cat into a harness is counterproductive because they'll associate it with a negative experience even before they've stepped outside.
To aid the process, you can lightly spritz the harness with a calming spray or go over it with a wipe. Pet Remedy have some great options, and Feliway's pheromone spray has the advantage of mimicking those trusty scent glands we spoke about earlier.
Pet Remedy Calming Spray provides a natural way of tackling stress and anxiety in cats, dogs and other small animals. It contains a blend of valerian and essential oils and can be sprayed on bedding, blankets and carriers prior to a vet visit.
If your cat doesn't take to wearing a harness on the first attempt, leave it a day or so before trying again. This can be a lengthy process in itself, but patience is the best way of getting the desired results - with plenty of rewards to build those positive associations. Treats should be given immediately after putting on and taking off the harness.
Once your cat is familiar with this process, leave the harness on for a few minutes at a time until it's comfortable walking and moving around. You can offer treats periodically to reward or distract, if necessary. You could also try playing with kitty's favourite toy to practice a range of different motions. This will show if the harness is too loose or too tight, and if you need to make any adjustments.
Again, this could take anything from minutes to hours, days, weeks - or in the case of my boys, never! I wasn't expecting miracles, given that we all know how skittish my fluffballs are. Let's just say their reactions were clear enough to tell me that it wasn't going to happen. It's disappointing, but some kitties simply aren't made for being walked and this should be respected at all costs.
3. Taking Cats Outside
You should get cats used to walking on a leash around the house before taking them outside so they know how it feels. That's not to say you should be tugging or pulling a cat around, but there may be instances where you have to manoeuvre them for safety reasons. This can be a rather jarring sensation, so it's best to let cats take the lead while you remain a few paces behind. Given what we already know about our feline friends, they'd much rather believe that they were walking their owners than the other way around!
More importantly, walking in front of a cat is more likely to pull on the harness, which could result in it sliding over their small heads. If you notice your kitty trying to reverse out of its harness, rest assured that it knows exactly what it's doing! A lot of products claim to be "escape proof" and, while the correct size and proper fitting will help, nothing is guaranteed.
Since cats like to explore solo, hovering or lurking over them can be off-putting. It's essential that you give them space while being close enough to step in if necessary.
Some experts advise attaching a leash and letting the cat drag it around but, to me, it isn't worth the risk of it getting caught, tangled or wrapped around the cat's body and could potentially undo all of your hard work. This is particularly dangerous if kitty freaks out and bolts off like the Tasmanian Devil - which I've witnessed with my own eyes - and the last thing you want is a leash trailing along behind them.
Before letting cats loose on the street, if you have a garden or yard then it's best to start small and familiar. Open the door and let kitty venture out in its own time without straying too far from the house, so if it becomes overwhelmed then it can quickly retreat indoors. If you live in an apartment, you can take a short walk around the building or complex.
It might be beneficial to practice picking your cat up while it's wearing a harness, which you may well have to do in order to evade sudden or unexpected threats, such as barking dogs.
Just five minutes of fresh air is enough for a first experience, gradually increasing duration over the following days. Nervous cats might need a bit of enticing, and one idea is to leave a trail of treats to "breadcrumb" them into stepping outside. Once you think they've built up enough confidence, it's time to go on your first walk together!
Choose a quiet, dry day so cats get a positive first experience, and make sure it's not during rush hour so traffic is at a minimum. Remember too that cats are creatures of routine, so scheduling a particular time of the day will help them to anticipate their walk. Before feeding is ideal so they're coming home to a big tasty meal - the more rewards, the better.
Go a little further each time, starting by walking up and down the street, then around the block and so on. If kitty seems more comfortable staying within the boundaries of the home or garden, that's fine too. They can still benefit greatly from the fresh air, exercise and enrichment that an outdoor environment has to offer - without posing a threat to wildlife, which is a bonus.
Some areas or neighbourhoods will be less suitable for walking cats than others. Main roads should be avoided wherever possible, and city centres or public transport are for experienced explorers only.
If you want to travel further out, such as to a wooded area, then taking cats on short car journeys will help them get used to driving. They should be confined to a carrier for their own safety as well as yours, in case you're unfortunate enough to be involved in a traffic accident.
You might want to take a collapsible carrier or basket with you on longer walks as a safety measure. That way, if your cat gets stressed or frightened then you can secure them to avoid unnecessary trauma. Remember to familiarise cats with any new enclosures using the steps outlined in preparing cats for a vet visit.
Tecageaon Collapsible Pet Backpack Carrier is designed for travel and hiking with a lightweight, ventilated design; side pockets and all-angle viewing.
Summary
As mentioned at the beginning of this article, a lot of animal organisations do not recommend letting cats outdoors under any circumstances - that is, outside of a garden or yard. However, there's also a lot of information on how to travel with cats as safely as possible. We have to appreciate that every cat is unique with his or her own requirements.
Personally, I'm for anything that can help to improve an animal's health and wellbeing. That includes taking all of the necessary precautions and following the essential guidelines as described in this article. You're responsible for the safety of your cat and should monitor their stress levels at every stage of training and walking - that means slowing down or even stopping at the first sign of distress.
Got a question that hasn't been covered? Get in touch or comment to share any tips and ticks of your own for training or walking cats.
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