How to Reintroduce Cats After a Fight in 6 Steps
Updated: 2 days ago
I've said it a million times throughout this site: cat fights are one of the most stressful and complex issues for a pet parent to deal with, and before long it's not just your cats at war but your entire household. Reintroducing cats after a fight or helping them to get along requires patience, persistence and near constant encouragement; but the good news is that it can be achieved with the right strategy.
Armed with my own personal experiences, I'm sharing everything you need to know about how to successfully separate and reintroduce cats. Whether it's a one-off incident or a more long-standing problem, I'll carry you over those hurdles and navigate obstacles to the best of my ability. The more kitties we can help together, the better!
Related post: 3 Reasons Why Your Bonded Cats Are Fighting
Head straight to the 6 steps for reintroducing cats after a fight:
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1. Separation
When Do I Need to Separate Cats?
The separation and reintroduction process can apply to cats that are already acquainted with each other or when bringing new pets into the household. Sometimes it can simply be a case of one cat going for a vet visit or being away for a period of time, thus it becomes a case of non-recognition or redirected aggression.
Cats are armed with fangs and claws; they're born hunters which means they're designed to kill. Leaving cats to "fight it out" amongst themselves could be considered unwise and irresponsible as a pet owner or guardian. If aggression is physical - that is, full-contact fights with a potential to cause injury - then separation is necessary to build new and positive associations with each other.
Whether you're reintroducing cats after a fight or welcoming a new kitten, puppy or baby - both scenarios follow the same principles, whereby we’re treating them as if they’re meeting for the first time.
How Long Should I Keep Cats Apart After a Fight?
Any separation period will give cats a chance to cool off and de-stress - something we humans can resonate with, too. Some cats just need a 10-minute break, but where aggression is persistent or long-lasting then it’s recommended to keep them separated for 24-48 hours. In extreme cases, it can take weeks rather than days. Again, you know your cats better than anyone.
If you find that the reintroduction phase isn’t going well then you may be pushing your cats too fast, in which case try extending the separation time. I know it can feel deflating going back to square one, but you’re not going to resolve things any quicker by forcing cats into situations they aren’t ready for. In fact, this could damage their relationship further.
There should be NO visual contact during separation.
2. Site Swapping
Why Is Scent Important to Cats?
Site swapping involves rotating cats around different rooms or areas of the home, if possible. This allows them to spread their scents and maintain a sense of familiarity with other cats, even when they're not in direct contact. The same applies when introducing new cats to the home, it’s all part of the preparation.
Any foreign smells are going to alert resident cats to a potential invader, so it’s essential that we create a safe and comfortable environment for that initial meeting; after all, first impressions are everything! We know cats are territorial and we know they rely on scent as a valuable form of communication, hence why they should never see each other before being acquainted by smell.
My Home Isn't Practical for Site Swapping, Is There Anything Else I Can Do?
If the setup of your home doesn’t allow for site rotations then you can swap things like blankets, bedding and toys or rub a towel over one cat and place it in the other cat’s space, paying special attention to the face, mouth and chin where those important scent glands lie. If your cats like to be brushed, you can use the same comb on both cats so their scents are on each other.
Some buildings may be more problematic than others, such as studio apartments which generally don’t have doors. In this case, you could look into room dividers or baby gates that slot into hallways, staircases and archways - remembering not to stack one on top of the other as I’ve seen some people do. This is dangerous for both animals and humans!
For the living room, I used the Venture Q-Fix Extra Tall Baby Gate which my boys have never jumped over, but they're not particularly energetic cats and would probably be too scared to try. If you're concerned about your kitties attempting the great escape, you can buy extenders for extra height or get creative with materials such as cardboard and Perspex.
With some DIY skills you might be able to construct your own barrier, which is what we ended up doing for the stairs - Victorian houses don’t mix well with modern gadgets. A simple made-to-measure wooden frame and chicken wire worked well. Yes it was ugly, but still one of the most helpful aids when reintroducing the boys.
The main advantage of a gate over a door is allowing visual contact later on. In the meantime, it can be covered with a blanket, curtain, towel or any kind of fabric that blocks off sight. If your cats are anything like mine and decide to pull up the corners to create spyholes, a bit of tape should do the trick.
I cannot stress enough the importance of no visual contact in those early stages. Cats are curious creatures and this is a great opportunity to bring that out. Just what, or who, is on the other side of that barrier? Is it a friend or foe? Do we have a potential playmate? Let your kitties know that good stuff happens whenever they’re together, which brings us to the next phase.
3. Reintroduction
If you want your cats to do anything for you then, as with any living creature, food is one of the best motivators (or bribery as far as cats are concerned). If you’ve read My Story then you’ll know I faced the additional problem of switching Drax to urinary food, not to mention that both of my boys are grazers, preferring small but regular snacks throughout the day instead of set mealtimes.
Knowing what I know now, if I could go back in time and not free feed my boys then it’s the first thing I’d change, as this was a wasted opportunity!
Related post: How to Change a Cat's Food with 10 Tasty Tips
How Do I Know When It's Safe to Reintroduce Cats?
If cats have been separated after fighting, wait until they're visibly calmer as this indicates that any adrenaline has left the system. They shouldn't be hissing, growling, tensed up, hunched, cowering, hiding or pacing around. You should be able to pet cats as usual and they'll be comfortable with any new scents. This may mean inspecting blankets and bedding - or on the contrary, ignoring them!
If you witness any swatting or hissing at objects that smell of another cat then they're not ready for the next stage. Likewise, if they display any aggressive or fearful behaviour when hearing cats in a different room or area of the home, extend the separation time by another 12 hours.
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4. Distraction
How to Create Positive Associations
Positive associations or "reinforcements" are an effective way to train cats by using rewards to encourage desired behaviours. Usually this would be whatever best motivates your cat: for example, offering its favourite treat whenever it uses a scratch post instead of clawing your carpet. Kitty will learn to associate this behaviour with something positive - i.e., the treat - so now it loves using its scratch post. Timing is critical here: the reward must be given immediately before a cat's attention wavers to the next thing!
If your cat isn't motivated by food then you can use petting, playtime or any kind of positive attention to place emphasis on the behaviour. A word of warning: this is also true for negative associations if, for example, you shout at a cat for fighting then it'll associate that fear with the other cat.
Why Food and Play Are Important When Introducing or Reintroducing Cats
Food and play are the easiest forms of distraction for an aggressive kitty, and it also helps to build those positive associations. Both are driven by one basic instinct: hunting. In the wild, cats have to catch their prey before they can eat it. A hungry cat is going to be more interested in food than fighting, which takes up energy in itself. I’ve actually witnessed my boys stop growling at each other for a snack, just to pick up their argument afterwards!
Meals are the best time to begin introductions or reintroductions, starting with feeding cats simultaneously either side of that trusty barrier. To make a cat extra hungry, you can tire them out with play.
I can hear you now: “But, Rach, my cats won’t play!”
Your cats WILL play, and this post on how to play with cats gives all the pointers and advice you need.
I can tell you, however, that I had the same issue. My boys liked to pick and choose their playtimes which, of course, would always be when the other was sleeping. That’s if they wanted to play at all, which 90% of the time was a hard no.
Even if cats won't play together, just creating that positive environment where they can observe each other in a neutral setting is a step in the right direction. They'll learn to be in the same space without the focus being on each other (or fighting) and once they're comfortable, you can work on extending play to include both cats.
5. Food
Maintaining that no-visual rule, you can begin feeding your cats either side of the barrier. Start by leaving a distance of six to eight feet each way, or however much space you can allow. If all goes well, i.e., cats finish their bowls without any signs of tension or fear, gradually reduce that distance over the following meals.
Our aim is to get both cats to a point where they’re eating comfortably right next to the barrier. Whether it takes a day or a week will depend on your cats, but try not to get hung up on timing. What’s important is creating that positive association and reassurance that no one has to compete for vital resources.
Allowing Visual Contact
Upon successful completion of this step, it’s time for some visual contact. When I say some, I’m talking minimal to begin with. No whipping off that sheet or you risk all of your hard work being undone. Raise the sight blocker by an inch or two, or if you’re using a door then open it a crack - barely wide enough for kitty to squeeze its paw through.
This is a good chance to test the waters, so if their attention wavers or they start showing signs of aggression, calmly direct their focus back to the food. An extra pair of hands may be helpful so both cats are being supervised, but remember too that a bit of hissing is perfectly natural. Your cats are warning each other to stay back so everyone knows their place - whether those places are acknowledged is another matter!
Again, the process should be repeated for as long as necessary, gradually raising the blanket until there’s full visual contact and eventually *gasp* no barrier at all. If you’re not quite there yet or, like me, food just isn’t tempting enough, do not fear because there are plenty of other distractions to try.
How to Use Treats to Distract Cats from Fighting
With neither of my boys being big eaters, and a blatant disregard for change, I focused more on treats; although this comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. If you start throwing treats at a hissing cat then it’s going to continue being a hissing cat. Don’t send mixed messages by rewarding aggression, especially when it’s directed at a fellow housemate.
Treats should be offered in the presence of both cats and to reinforce good behaviour. I say “good” but cats don’t perceive aggression as bad (or good). It’s part of their survival instinct, whether triggered by an external stressor or as we see in certain hormonal and neurological conditions.
Treats were especially useful when managing Drax, as the main aggressor or “chaser”. For example, I’d use his favourite Dreamies treat biscuits as a distraction while Simba either walked past him or crossed from one side of a room to the other. He’d gobble up the treats while keeping a beady eye on his brother, which I’m sure was as terrifying for Simba as it was for me - the referee.
During these supervised meetings, if Drax could resist the temptation to lunge at Simba then he was given another treat, along with a petting and praise from Mum. I’ll say it again: attention can be a reward!
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Eventually, Drax began to ignore his brother - or just grew bored - but either way it didn’t solve the larger issue. As with those pesky counter surfers, they’ll just wait until no one’s around to stop them and do it anyway. It was, however, a step in the right direction; and a short relief from chasing two screaming cats around the house.
6. Play
To pick up on another form of distraction, you can use play in conjunction with treats. All of those pounces and leaps consume energy, and you want to encourage as much of this positive behaviour as your kitty can manage. The more they exhaust on play, the less they’ll have for fighting.
It’s important to play with cats separately as well as together, this way they get your undivided attention and a bonding session with other cats. We don’t want anyone feeling left out!
A laser pointer is perfect for controlling play, especially during separation as you can direct cats towards the barrier and have them running and chasing either side of it. If you have a second person to entertain both cats, use whatever toys they prefer to keep that momentum going. I had a barrier positioned so that one cat had run of the stairs for extra exercise, but hallways and landings work just as well. Once they’re all tired out, now would be an ideal feeding time.
Related post: 12 Types of Cat Toys and Games for All Cats to Play
All of these steps have the additional purpose of getting cats into a routine so they know, and hopefully anticipate, what’s coming. Building excitement can certainly be difficult for lazy cats, but it really works.
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To make things more awkward, my boys favoured completely different toys. Simba was all mice and feather wands; Drax liked to chase crinkle balls and a random pompom. Interactive toys can be a godsend here, just push a button and it does the work for you. Even if cats aren’t interested in playing, movement and sound are distraction enough.
For playtime on a budget, check out these DIY cat toy ideas that are quick and easy to make, allowing more time to spend on those adorable fluffballs.
Keep a blanket handy for any outbursts and block off sight if necessary. This should be enough to snap them out of it or, worst-case scenario, usher them into different rooms. Remember, allowing some time to cool off and start over is perfectly fine. Best-case scenario, all goes well and it’s time to ditch the barrier completely. This is undoubtedly the most challenging step, not just for you but for your cats.
This should only be attempted if cats can share a space with full visual contact, no aggression and most importantly, no death stares! If you can’t distract them with a barrier then you certainly won’t be able to do it without one.
How Do I Safely Reintroduce Cats?
Stick to short supervised meetings limited to one room and gradually extend that area over time. It’s only natural to want to give kitties the benefit of the doubt, but that means you’re working on your timeframe instead of theirs.
If things go downhill after removing the barrier then keep it in place, even if cats appear to be getting along. Don't expect too much because, chances are, your cats are still working things out. Sometimes you need to give them the freedom to do this.
We also need to think of victim cats that can be prone to anxiety and depression. Simba was so on edge that he’d react to the slightest movement or vocalisation from Drax, even when it was harmless.
We don’t want to normalise living in fear as this can cause as much psychological damage as a fight can cause physical injury. Your scaredy-cat needs assurance that it isn’t going to be ambushed on its way to the litter tray, and bullies need a positive channel for their energy.
The more Simba’s confidence grew, the more he stopped reacting to Drax’s bullying. The less he ran, the less reason Drax had to chase. I’ve spoken previously about cat fights looking and sounding worse than they are, but that doesn’t lessen the stress that can build up over time. Timing is everything here, especially when it comes to cats reacquainting with one another.
If cats do engage in a hissing and spitting war upon reintroduction and are unable to work things out within a couple of minutes, they probably aren’t going to - at least, not for the meantime. Prevention is better than intervention, so the best course of action is to defuse the situation with a separation and reset. Recovery should be a lot quicker than if a full-contact fight was to ensue. This should help to reduce tension until episodes become less in frequency and intensity.
In extreme cases I’ve seen people use crates, carriers and harnesses to secure an offending cat. This allows a safe introduction where cats can share a space without the risk of an attack. They should be rotated so each has a chance to inspect the other.
For example, if you have a victim cat then place it inside a carrier while the other cat is left loose, or keep it on a harness if it shows any aggression towards the victim. Remember to familiarise them with any new enclosures just as you would when preparing them for a vet visit.
Related post: How to Harness Train Cats for Walking on a Leash Safely
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How Long Will It Take My Cats to Get Along?
As mentioned frequently in this article alone, cats have their own timeline and we shouldn't put any expectations on them to ever get along. If you don't like the person you're living with then you have the option of moving out or engaging in a civilised discussion about how to deal with any problems. You have your own room, your own food and the freedom to come and go as you please.
Now imagine that person bursting into your private space and throwing their weight around. Helping themselves to your food, sleeping in your bed, maybe even slapping you over the head whenever you walk past. How uncomfortable and frustrating does it feel? How angry would you get over time?
If we're going to expect animals to put up with things that we ourselves would never tolerate, the least we can do is allow them to express those feelings and make necessary changes - such as adding more territory. The wonderful thing about animals is that they don't make enemies out of pettiness or dislike; jealousy, greed or any of those things that humans are guilty of. They're simply fighting for their survival and their territory.
It's hard to predict how things will play out and, the truth is, your cats probably don’t know either. Depending on the nature of the aggression and how deep it runs, they may temporarily “forget” they’re friends, for which it’s our job to remind them. Trust has to be earned, and whether that takes weeks or months is down to your cats. One day they might just decide to make up, which I’ve witnessed countless times with my own.
The separation and reintroduction process can be as long or as short as it needs to be, and success comes in many forms. If cats aren't trying to kill each other as soon as they enter a room, that's progress! Any kind of positive interaction, however brief, is a sign that you're on the right track.
Should I Discipline Cats for Fighting?
Yelling at or punishing cats will exacerbate the situation and create negative associations with both yourself and other cats. Rewarding good behaviour is far more effective in the long-run and will encourage kitties to do more of it. We shouldn't be treating cats like dogs, who want nothing more than to please their owners. Frankly, cats couldn't give a damn about pleasing anyone but themselves!
Telling a cat "no" is likely to be as detrimental as yelling, as your cat won't have a clue what you're saying; but it will associate the word with a negative experience. Cats can and do remember words, as I can attest to with my own boys who have a very select vocabulary. Words related to food, toys, treats and other things that peak their interest in a positive way stick in their little brains like glue.
That's not to say they understand the word itself, but they can comprehend other things like tone of voice and mannerisms. It's basically the equivalent to humans interpreting the vocalisations of a cat: for example, it's easy to tell the difference between an "I'm hungry" or "play with me" meow and a cry of fear or distress. In short, don't underestimate your kitties.
“Discipline” can consist of something as simple as ignoring your cat. Our furry friends crave attention, whether they show it or not; and encouraging negative behaviour is a mistake made by many, including myself.
How many times have you lifted your cat off the kitchen counter? If you think you’re the one in control then think again, because you’re probably doing exactly what he or she wants you to do. Attention, good or bad, provides no deterrent for a cat.
How to Break Up a Cat Fight
When breaking up fights, a swift and calm separation is all that's necessary. If cats haven't engaged in a physical altercation but are showing signs of aggression, using a sight blocker is recommended. Keep a piece of cardboard handy such as a flattened box, or a cushion to place between cats.
This is safer for everyone, especially where cat-to-human aggression is present. It's also less intrusive than wading in or grabbing, which could scare cats into reacting. Sometimes this may be enough to distract them but, if not, then usher cats into different rooms until tension has eased and ensure there are plenty of hiding places.
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Where cats are having a full-contact fight, don't use your hands to separate them. This is easier said than done in the heat of the moment, but try using a long-handled object such as a broom or throwing a blanket over one or both cats.
They should be kept apart in this instance and left to cool off in their own time, as trying to soothe an aggressive kitty can be dangerous to your hands and body. Ignore cats for at least 10 minutes - I know, it feels like a lifetime - but the more emphasis you place on any particular behaviour, the more they're likely to remember it.
Long-term Solutions for Aggression Between Cats
While it's possible for cats to return to a normal, healthy relationship, we must be prepared to make some long-term changes to a cat's routine and/or environment. Once aggression has erupted, it's more likely to happen again in the future - but this isn't always the case. Separation and reintroduction can be a solution for many but, for others, it's part of a longer process to restoring peace and harmony within the home.
When managing feline aggression, the most important things to focus on are eliminating competition for resources by offering more food and water stations; sleeping areas, litter trays and toys. Also adding more territory such as cat trees and stands, shelving and window hammocks.
Learn how to keep cats mentally stimulated with plenty of enrichment in this post: Cat Enrichment Ideas and Boredom Breakers for Indoor Cats
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For reducing anxiety and stress, plug-in diffusers target a cat's pheromone receptors to bring feelings of safety and comfort within their environment. Calming sprays, such as Pet Remedy, contain valerian which is known for its relaxing properties; as well as wipes, collars and food supplements. Medications for anxiety can be discussed with a registered vet.
Remember, cats may never be best friends but toleration and avoidance are an achievement, too. Some areas of the home can make this difficult, such as those dreaded narrow spaces we always talk about: doorways and halls. If possible, block off any problem zones or give cats a timeout from each other with a mini separation.
This allows them to explore and play without having to worry about potential confrontations. If your home isn't big enough then take it in turns by shutting one cat in a room, similar to site swapping. This will help to burn off energy and limit feelings of frustration from inactivity.
Summary
Where aggression is physical and persistent, separate cats for 24-48 hours in the first instance.
Use site swapping or rotate items such as blankets and bedding so cats can familiarise themselves with new scents.
Install a suitable barrier to introduce or reintroduce cats with no visual contact.
Start feeding cats either side of the barrier until they're comfortable up close with no signs of tension or fear.
Gradually allow visual contact using play, food or treats to distract cats.
Remove the barrier and introduce cats under supervision. There should be no hissing or growling.
Stick to short meetings and monitor cats' behaviour, slowly extending the area over time.
Ensure plenty of resources are available to eliminate competition (beds, food stations, litter trays, etc).
Provide a stimulating environment with toys, scratch posts and exercise.
Add more territory such as cat trees, shelves, stands, ramps and window hammocks to help cats stay out of each other's ways.
Recognise signs of aggression and separate if necessary.
Remain calm and reinforce positive behaviour.
Give cats the time and space they need!
If, like me, you’re constantly beating yourself up over what you did wrong, not doing enough, doing too much - remember, we’re only human. These steps can always be repeated and once you’ve got a process or routine that works for your cats, stick to it. Be patient, be consistent and allow an adequate amount of time for any tension or adrenaline to leave the system before reintroducing cats. That goes for you, too!
Cats will pick up on your emotional state, be it through the tone of your voice, gestures or their own super senses. Provoking a cat fight by overreacting or reacting too soon is a mistake we’re all bound to make. Likewise, thinking a bad situation is worse than it is creates a sense of hopelessness, and hopelessness leads to defeat.
That being said, there are many other factors to consider: your own mental health, as well as that of your cat’s. There’s no defeat in finding your kitties a happy home elsewhere.
Check out more helpful strategies in this personal account of how I successfully reintroduced my cats and some of the products I used.
Are you currently going through the separation and reintroduction process? Have you developed any strategies of your own? Let us know in the comments and share what you've learned to help and advise others.
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